Every few years an ingredient jumps from dermatology journals into everyday conversation. Hyaluronic acid did it. Niacinamide did it. The latest is bakuchiol, and if you've spotted it on a label and wondered what on earth it is, this is the plain-English version.
The short version
Bakuchiol (say it ba-koo-chee-ol) is a plant-derived skincare ingredient extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, better known as the babchi plant. Its claim to fame: it behaves like a gentler retinol. Similar visible benefits for texture and tone, minus the dryness and peeling retinol is notorious for.
An old plant with a new job
The babchi plant is not new. It has centuries of use in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese practice behind it, mostly in skin preparations. The bakuchiol compound itself was first isolated back in the 1960s. What changed recently is that researchers started testing it head to head against retinol, and the results got people's attention.
What the research actually found
The study everyone cites is a 2018 randomised trial in the British Journal of Dermatology. Bakuchiol 0.5% against retinol 0.5%, twelve weeks. Two findings stood out:
- Both groups saw comparable improvements in the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation.
- The retinol group reported noticeably more stinging and facial scaling.
Earlier lab work had already shown that bakuchiol, despite being chemically nothing like retinol, appears to nudge some of the same pathways in skin. Researchers call it "functionally" retinol-like. Comparable results, delivered more gently. That's the pitch, and unusually for skincare, there's a peer-reviewed trial behind it.
What it's known for
- Smoother-looking texture — the benefit it shares most directly with retinol.
- A more even-looking tone, with studies observing improvements in the appearance of pigmentation.
- Antioxidant properties that help defend skin against environmental stress. It can even help stabilise other ingredients in a formula.
- Gentleness. No "retinisation" adjustment period. Sensitive skin generally gets on with it.
The practical differences from retinol
Three things matter day to day. Bakuchiol doesn't increase sun sensitivity, so it works in a morning routine as well as an evening one (you still wear SPF daily, that never changes). It doesn't pick fights with other actives, so it layers happily with vitamin C, something retinol traditionally can't do. And it isn't a vitamin A derivative, which is why it's the name that keeps coming up when someone pregnant needs to retire their retinol.
Who it suits
Anyone new to actives who wants a gentle way in. Anyone whose skin flatly rejected retinol. Sensitive and reactive skin types. And frankly, anyone who wants one uncomplicated serum they can use every day instead of a rota of alternating actives. If your skin already handles prescription-strength retinoids without complaint, you have less reason to switch. Bakuchiol's advantage is tolerability, not extra strength.
Using it
You'll find bakuchiol in serums at 0.5% to 2%. A few drops on clean, dry skin, morning and/or evening, before moisturiser. Patch test anything new. And give it time. The trial that made its name ran twelve weeks, and skincare rewards patience over intensity every time.
Why it's in The Glow Serum
We paired bakuchiol with 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a stabilised, non-acidic form of vitamin C, in The Glow Serum. The logic is simple enough: bakuchiol works on texture, vitamin C works on brightness, and because the two layer cleanly, both fit in one lightweight daily step.
Bakuchiol is that rare thing, a trending ingredient with real evidence behind it. It won't replace retinol for everyone. But for sensitive skin, or anyone tired of the endurance test, it's one of the most credible ingredients to arrive in years.
Curious whether bakuchiol suits your routine? We're happy to help — info@haloskinshop.com.
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